The table arrives laden. Muhammara — roasted red pepper and walnut paste, deep with pomegranate molasses and smoked paprika. Silky hummus dressed in cold-pressed olive oil. And beside them: tabbouleh — finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, mint, bulgur wheat, ripe tomato, and sharp lemon. Warm pita from the oven. Pickled red onions alongside, sharp as a telegram. Begin here, and take your time.

The centrepiece. Lamb marinated for 24 hours in warm spice — cinnamon, allspice, cardamom, clove — then roasted low and slow until it gives completely. Carved tableside. More warm pita. More tahini sauce. More pickled red onions. No formality required at this table.